15 Jan 2018

Review: Make P:rem Radiance Peeling Sleeping Pack


This is a long overdue review for me. I have been wanting to write about it but keep holding back to make sure that I use it for long enough before talking about it. Now that I have been using it for more than 6 months, with less than half left in the container, I think I am ready to review it.


Make P:rem Radiance Peeling Sleeping Pack is the first Make P:rem product that I bought. The concept of having chemical exfoliant inside a sleeping mask is really appealing. Besides, I am also curious about PHA, which is something new for me after AHA and BHA. I wanted to see if this so-called gentler approach to AHA a more effective solution for my skin.



To be honest, Make P:rem is not the only brand that carries a sleeping mask with chemical exfoliants inside. Innisfree has one with wheat vinegar. Glow Recipe also formulated their own watermelon sleeping mask with AHA. Other brands like Mamonde are slowing catching up on the flow. But since I never try any Make P:rem and PHA products before, I decided to go with Make P:rem, (and did not look back).


My first impression on Make P:rem was really good. The product is packed in a simple but elegant blue plastic container with class. The product is a translucent gel that is a bit blueish. It has a really enticing cosmetic fragrance that is really nice at first, but got a bit overpowering as you used it for longer.


If you are still unsure what this is, it is basically a radiance-boosting, gel-type sleeping mask that will help your skin regenerate and renew throughout the night. It is sort of like the Laneige Water Sleeping Mask with added exfoliating benefit to it. The next morning you will wake up with polished, smoother and brighter looking skin.

HOW TO USE


Normally I use this as the last step of my nighttime skincare routine after cream and before going to bed. I apply about a medium pearl size all over my face, pat until absorbed and leave it on for the whole night.

Alternatively, you may apply a thick layer then wash it off later as wash-off pack if you prefer. I think that is a waste of product so I never really wash off anything that claims to work overnight.

INGREDIENTS


Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Media Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Media Azadirachta Flower Extract, Onsen-Sui, Betula Alba Juice, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugarcane) Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Flower/Leaf Extract, Lawsonia Inermis (Henna) Flower/Fruit/Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Xylitol, Pearl Powder, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Cymbopogon Citratus Leaf Oil, Viola Odorata Oil, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-240/HDI Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Glycosyl Trehalose, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Caprylyl Glycol, Octyldodeceth-16, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Dimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Adenosine, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Amino Esters-1, Lactobionic Acid, Allantoin, Inositol, Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide Lysine, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lysolecithin, Phytosterols, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Potassium Laurate, Ceramide 3, Aqua, Citric Acid, Carbomer, Alcohol, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Sorbate, Fragrance

INGREDIENTS ANALYSIS


This is a seriously long ingredients list, but you can actually see a pattern there. Most of these are anti-inflammatory and moisturizing ingredients that can repair skin damages and irritation caused by the PHA. Things like neem extract, turmeric extract, niacinamide, birch sap, basil and so on are all shown to have anti-oxidizing and calming benefits for the skin. Niacinamide, in particular, is also a powerful ingredient used in many skincare to combat aging and strengthen skin barrier.

Some skin brightening ingredients like thermus thermophillus ferment, bilberry extract, niacinamide, sugar cane extract and so on are also added to offer greater skin tone improving benefits. Among them, sugar cane is also a naturally occurring AHA that can combat aging and reduce acne and blackheads problem.

The key ingredient here is of course the lactobionic acid, which is also known as PHA. It is a gentler form of AHA and BHA due to its larger molecular size. Hence, anyone with sensitive skin and still want the AHA benefit can look for this instead. Just like AHA, PHA works on skin surface to break down the bonds between dead skin cells, making it easier to fall off so that newer and younger cells can resurface faster. Our skin sheds dead skin cells naturally but sometimes when we grow older or our metabolism crooks up this process can be slowed leading to dull and lifeless complexion.

PERFORMANCE



This doesn't always turn out well. I have bumpy texture ever since I change jobs and sleep an hour less every day. I guess it has something to do with my metabolism. So I am always on the look out for better scrub and peel. I tried many from physical scrub to chemical exfoliant, but none really works to eliminate the bumpy texture completely. In the end, I have to go to the beauty salon and got them extracted. Now these chemical exfoliants work as a preventative treatment for me mostly.

What I did see with this sleeping mask is a clearer and more radiant complexion when I woke up the next morning. My skin always looks a lot brighter and clearer. It may not be very smooth when you touch it, but the brightening effect is there. I also like the fact that it doesn't dry me out unlike other chemical peels.

CONCLUSION


Make P:rem always has innovative products to share. They have a in-shower mask that I kinda enjoy, and a clay-to-foam cleanser that is so convenient and time-saving! I also really enjoy their sunscreens, both the orange- and blue-cap.

I think it is a great idea to add PHA into sleeping mask. PHA is a milder and gentler form of AHA. Thus adding it into leave-on mask allows it to do its work slowly but steadily thorough the night. You can enjoy almost effortlessly brighter skin as long as you remember to wear sunscreen!

However, I do notice that my passion and love towards this product kinda fade after 6 months or so. I am getting a bit bored or sick of its scent, which may be quite pleasant and breezy when you first smelled, but got a bit overpowering when you smelled it for longer. And I also don't like the fact that it is a bit drying compared to other moisturizing sleeping mask. Of course this never intends to be a moisturizing product but the fact that my skin feels a little dry when I put it on is a turn-off point for me. These are some of setbacks despite its notable skin brightening effect. I can get similar results from Sulwhasoo Brightening Water (at higher price though) so this is not irreplaceable.

Having said all these, I still enjoy this sleeping pack a lot but my passion towards it is fading so I will probably not repurchase when I finish using it.


Pros:
- the fragrance is much better than many chemical exfoliants
- lightweight, easily absorbed gel texture
- innovative idea combining chemical peel and sleeping mask
- cost-effectiveness
- amazing skin brightening and toning effects
- uses gentler and milder PHA

Cons:
- the fragrance gets overpowering over time
- not very moisturizing, could be a little drying
- cannot really get rid of bumpy texture, breakouts and zits
- the finish is a bit tacky and may not be exactly pillow-proof

Extended Reading:

Exfoliation 101: Introducing the Concept of Exfoliation and An Overview of Gommage Peel and Facial Scrub I Used

Exfoliation 201: Chemical Exfoliation, AHA and BHA



Overall impression: ★★★★
Repurchasing: ★★★
You can get this from: Althea Korea | Muto Korea | Testerkorea | Glow Recipe
[Disclaimer] Product is purchased with my own money. All copyright of contents and images in this article is strictly mine.
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