27 Dec 2015

Review: AMPM 10 Peptide Ultra-light UV Lotion SPF30+ PA++


Combating freckles is a life-long mission for someone like me who are genetically prone to having freckles. And sunscreen is a must. Without sunscreen, the mission is impossible. Hence, I am always on the quest of finding the perfect sunscreen despite my aversion to having that sticky layer on my skin. I always buy and try new sunscreen to see which one works "perfectly" for me. I also keep two sunscreens on my dressing table all the time for that reason - one is the "light-weighted, preferred" sunscreen, and the other one is the "tested, disliked, but need to finish to avoid wasting it" sunscreen. Luckily enough, when I opened this AMPM sunscreen, my less favourable It's Skin sunscreen is nearly finished so I didn't have to keep two sunscreens on my dressing table. Also, when I was using this AMPM sunscreen, I enjoy it so much that I didn't have any motivation to open another bottle of sunscreen. It also quickly becomes one of my "holy-grail sunscreens" after Biore Watery Essence.




For those of you who are not aware of the AM+PM brand, it's a sister brand of the well-known Taiwanese skincare brand Naruko designed by skincare guru Niuer (牛爾). With his abundant experience working in the beauty industry, Niuer translates all his expertise and knowledge into real beauty products. AM+PM is specifically designed for office ladies (OL) who worked 9AM to 6PM, hence the brand name.

Unlike Naruko which focuses more on aromatherapy and botanical extracts, AMPM strives to use the simplest and more scientific-research backed ingredients to achieve its best objectives. There isn't a lot of skincare range under AMPM, only moisturizing (hyaluronic acid), brightening (niacinamide and mandelic acid), anti-aging and pores minimizing. Think of it like a Taiwanese version of Hadalabo, Belif or Kiehl's. Other similar Taiwanese brands that are available in Malaysia include Dr. Wu and Neogence.

peptides

The marketing vow of this sunscreen are the 10 peptides used here, which are claimed to have brightening, anti-aging, wrinkle-care, moisturizing and pores-care benefits. These claims are achieved through a type of amino acid known as peptides instead of conventional botanical extracts or active ingredients. So, what are peptides and are they effective and safe to be used in cosmetics?

Basically, peptides are made up of amino acids with the same but shorter chemical structure like our proteins. They are meant to be cell-communicating agents that send signals to your cells deceiving them that collagen is breaking down and needs to be repaired. However, there has not been credible and sufficient research demonstrating their effectiveness. Also, peptides are generally unable to penetrate skin to deliver its claimed benefits. Most are also vulnerable to enzymes present in our skin. You could read more about peptides here: link1, link2, and link3.

I personally didn't have any aversion or problem with sunscreen using peptides. I am a very realistic person. Hence, I don't expect my sunscreen to carry a whole lot of fancy claims at the price of RM 45.00. It would be too good to be true. For me, sunscreen is after all a sunscreen, it is not an essence or serum so I never expect it to do anything more than offering me sufficient sun protection. As long as it is light-weighted, has at least SPF30 and a PA of ++, I would give it a go. I never expect my sunscreen to replace my serum. Of course, having more skincare benefits in your sunscreen is great, but not necessary.

texture: very runny, easily absorbed, non-greasy, no tackiness, no white cast, light-weighted 

In fact, this sunscreen, asides from its fancy claims, is doing everything it can to please me. It's cheap. At RM 45.00, this 50ml sunscreen can last you for 2 months even if you apply 2 fingerful per day (discount weekends since I normally didn't apply any sunscreen at home, just a personal preference). Of course, Biore is cheaper at about RM 32.90 (constantly on sales at around RM 26.90) whereas Hadalabo is around RM 52.90 (on sales for RM 37.02, 27 December 2015). But I still think that the price of AMPM is pretty reasonably especially if you buy it in Taiwan.

In addition, the texture of this sunscreen is impressive. It is in a white liquid form, very runny and can be absorbed really well into your skin, leaving no white cast and tackiness whatsoever. Even if I apply 1/4 tablespoon, my skin still drinks it up well, leaving a feathery light moisturized finish. It's not dewy or greasy, just a feeling of being lightly moisturized. No sunscreen can do this. Not even Biore or Hadalabo.

The smell of this sunscreen is nice as well. Not in the sense of perfumy, but in a very natural lotion kind of scent with a slight hint of alcohol. Very pure, with no fragrance added. Definitely not funky or funny.

And of course, its SPF30++ sun protection is just the right amount that I'm looking for.

CLAIMS

This sunscreen is a ultra light-weighted chemical and physical sunscreen made of 10 different types of peptides which provides comfy sun protection for your skin. A non-paraben formula, this sunscreen offers a great deal of sun protection, tightening effect, wrinkles-care, anti-aging, revitalizing benefits, brightening effects, soothing and repairing benefits.

#sun protection
#anti-aging
#brightening
#wrinkles-care







INGREDIENTS

[ Active Ingredients ]
Octylmethoxy Cinnamate 8%, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 1.2%

[ Other Ingredients ]
Purified Water(Aqua), Titanium Dioxide, Alcohol, Cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Talc, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyloyl Hydroxythreonine, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-6 Diaminohydroxybutyrate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15, Pentapeptide-18, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Oligopeptide-68, Nonapeptide-1, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Phenoxyethanol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

INGREDIENTS ANALYSIS

Main uv filters in this sunscreen are octyl methoxycinnamate (UVB, maximum 7.5% allowed), diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (UVA2, maximum 10% allowed), and titanium dioxide (UVA protection, physical sunscreen, maximum 25% allowed). Asides from octyl methoxycinnamate which goes slightly beyond 7.5% (this product uses 8%), which may increase its risk of skin penetration, the rest are good and acceptable. Read more on the risk of octyl methoxycinnamate here.

This sunscreen uses alcohol as its main solvent to give its ultra light texture. I personally didn't have any problem with cosmetics using alcohol but this might be a concern for those who are sensitive to alcohol. Another problematic ingredient here is talc. Talc is a naturally occurring silicate mineral used as an absorbent in skincare products. Although there are research associating the use of talc with lung cancer, recent research has not demonstrated credible evidence of cancer risks from using talc in cosmetics product (reference).

The goods of this sunscreen include the intensive amount of moisturizers (flagged blue) and peptides being used here. Like I said, I personally didn't find the peptides impressive or depressive. A lot of the peptides, such as tripeptide-3, syn-ake, syn-tacks, palmitoyl dipeptide-6, acetyl hexapeptide-8, syn-hycan are meant to reduce wrinkles and collagen depletion on your skin. They belong to the "anti-aging" peptides group. Other peptides such as acetyl tetrapeptide-15, pentapeptide-18 have soothing and moisturizing properties to protect skin from sun damage. Of course, there are also oligopeptide-68 and nonapeptide-1 to take care of skin brightening. These sound like a perfect combination for skin with sun damages (sagging, wrinkles, aging, hyper-pigmentation, and irritation). How thoughtful and sweet could that be?

Although my research didn't find these peptides to be overly impressive, I believe that with prolonged usage, this sunscreen would serve as a great sun protecting weapon which at the same time heals skin with past sun damages.

One thing to mention is that Niuer seems to have reformulated this sunscreen. Methylisothiazolinone, a preservative that are found to have caused nerve damage, was previously used in this sunscreen (based on old ingredients list I found online), which has now been replaced with two milder and safer preservatives: phenoxyethanol and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. More reason to use this on a long-run basis.

CONCLUSION

In short, I love this sunscreen for everything it is. It's extremely light-weighted, easily absorbed and have decent ingredients packed in this little bottle. Of course, this sunscreen might not be great for those working under hot sun, but would be ideal for OL working in a closed office room. The texture also makes it easier for makeup application in your busy morning. At RM 45.00 (sometimes even RM 39.00), this is also an affordable sunscreen since it can last you some 2 months. Although it is not super fancy and does not carry any impressive skincare benefits, but I am 100% sold for the texture of this sunscreen alone (at SPF30++). This is everything I'm looking for in a sunscreen. Miss Best Sunscreen crowned.


Packaging ★★★
Texture ★★★★★
Application ★★★★★
Scent ★★★★
Ingredients ★★★★☆
Performance ★★★★★

You can get this from: Naruko Malaysia | Hermo | NattaCosme | Beautystall | Watsons Malaysia
[Disclaimer] This is NOT a sponsored review. Products are purchased with my own money. All copy right of contents and images in this article is strictly mine.
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